Reports & Photos of Past Field Trips
Spellbound in Panama
April 16 - 25, 2003
By Liz Kreider
Spellbound. Even the frequent flyers to Central America
among us were dazzled by how fresh and intimate we found the birding on
this trip. Panama hosts over 950 species of birds and as ecotourism has
yet to embrace this land link between North and South America, there was
none of the crowding one can experience in other neo-tropical habitats.
(We saw not one tour bus, and at times our group of eight comprised the
only people in entire sections of national parks.) Without exception,
as we birded rain forests, cloud forests, shore habitats, and points in
between, we were alone and our experience was of the unspoiled beauty
of the countryside and its flora and fauna. Could Columbus or Balboa have
seen more pristine habitat?
Much of the credit goes to our guide, Guido Berguido, whose connections with birders at various stages of our trip allowed us to experience the birds in their isolated surroundings. We saw Resplendent Quetzales at the invitation of a local potato farmer who led us across his fields and up a hillside beyond to view the birds feeding in their favorite Bambito, or avocado, trees. A day at the country home of one of Panama's Audubon members led to the viewing of many of the 30 tanagers we saw on the trip. Our viewing of the rare Turquoise Cotinga and the Fiery-Billed Aracari - in the same tree! - came thanks to a tip from another local birder who said, as we rounded a bend on an isolated country road, "This is likely to be a birdy spot."
Colleagues aside, Guido was a superb guide - savvy (we saw 312 species and heard 22 others in eight and a half days of viewing: a total of 334 species), enthusiastic, cheerful, patient and a great source for the history and culture of Panama.
Alas, our privilege of birding in isolation comes at a price for the Panamanians. Panama desperately needs a thriving ecotourism sector in the economy to discourage the deforestation rampant in the country, to show local farmers that tourist income is renewable, and preferable to slash and burn subsistence farming; to logging for on-time sales.
As much as we'd like to think of Panama remaining as we saw it in isolated splendor, we are even more eager to know its beauty can be preserved through expanded ecotourism.
And so, if you are considering a trip to the neo-tropics, consider the one we just took. Go soon enough and the magic will be yours.
